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The Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of the most important professional diving watches ever produced. Developed during an era when commercial saturation diving was pushing the boundaries of underwater exploration, the Sea-Dweller represented Rolex's commitment to building a watch capable of withstanding some of the harshest environments imaginable.
Introduced in the late 1960s, the Sea-Dweller was developed with the needs of professional divers in mind. Its most significant innovation was the helium escape valve, a mechanism designed to allow helium accumulated inside the case during saturation diving to escape safely during decompression.
The reference 1665 became the foundation of the Sea-Dweller collection, initially appearing with the now famous red text on its dial. However, in the late 1970s, Rolex introduced an updated dial configuration that would become known among collectors as the 'Great White'.
The name comes from the removal of the red Sea-Dweller lettering, replaced by entirely white printing. While the change might appear relatively subtle, it marked an important chapter in the evolution of one of Rolex's most celebrated professional watches.
This 1979 Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 is a particularly attractive example of the early Great White configuration, featuring its original Mark 1 matte black dial.
The dial is undoubtedly one of the highlights of this watch. The original tritium hour markers have developed a wonderfully rich, creamy yellow patina, with the original hands exhibiting a complementary tone. Against the matte black surface, the contrast is superb, giving the watch precisely the sort of vintage character that collectors look for.
Equally impressive is the original aluminium bezel insert, which has aged into a beautiful blue-grey colour. Rather than the more commonly encountered black finish, this example has developed a subtle navy appearance, creating an attractive contrast against the warm tritium markers.
The watch retains the classic 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, with the thicker profile that distinguishes the Sea-Dweller from its Submariner counterparts. Its domed Plexiglass crystal provides the unmistakable appearance of an early Rolex professional sports watch, while the absence of a Cyclops magnifier gives the dial a wonderfully balanced appearance.
Powering the watch is the Rolex automatic calibre 1575, a robust chronometer-certified movement from an era when Rolex was establishing its reputation for exceptionally durable professional watches.
Completing the watch is its original Rolex 93150 Oyster bracelet, providing the familiar comfort and practicality associated with the brand's professional diving collection.
With its early Mark 1 dial, beautifully aged tritium, distinctive blue-grey bezel and accompanying original accessories, this is a particularly appealing example of the legendary Rolex Sea-Dweller Great White.
Key Features
Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 'Great White'
Year 1979
Rolex automatic calibre 1575 movement
Original Mark 1 matte black dial
White Sea-Dweller dial printing
Original tritium hour markers
Beautifully aged creamy yellow tritium patina
Original tritium hands with complementary ageing
40mm stainless steel Oyster case
Helium escape valve
Original aluminium bezel insert with blue-grey patina
Unidirectional? No — bidirectional rotating dive bezel
Domed Plexiglass crystal
Date display without Cyclops magnification
Original Rolex 93150 Oyster bracelet
Historic depth rating of 2,000ft / 610m
Original Rolex presentation box with reference sticker
Original Rolex caseback sticker
12-month Watts On Watches warranty
A Word on Condition
This Rolex Sea-Dweller presents as a wonderfully characterful vintage example, with the sort of natural ageing that makes collecting early Rolex sports watches so rewarding.
The original Mark 1 matte black dial is the main attraction. Its tritium hour markers have developed a particularly attractive creamy yellow tone, with a pleasing consistency across the dial. The original hands display complementary ageing, creating a harmonious appearance that is increasingly difficult to find in vintage professional Rolex watches.
The dial retains its strong visual presence, with the white Sea-Dweller printing providing excellent contrast against the matte black surface.
Perhaps my favourite detail is the bezel.
The original aluminium insert has developed an unusual blue-grey tone, shifting between navy blue and slate grey depending on the lighting. There are visible signs of wear, including small marks and areas of ageing around the insert, but these contribute to its distinctive vintage appearance.
The stainless steel case retains an attractive profile, with the substantial construction and pronounced crown guards associated with the reference 1665. There are scratches and signs of previous wear throughout, as expected from a professional diving watch of this age.
The domed Plexiglass crystal adds considerable character, especially when viewed from an angle, where its distinctive curvature creates the wonderful reflections associated with early Sea-Dwellers.
The original Rolex 93150 Oyster bracelet also shows signs of age and use, remaining an appropriate and attractive complement to the watch.
What makes this example particularly appealing is the combination of its original dial, warm tritium and beautifully aged bezel. Nothing about its appearance feels overly restored or artificially perfect. It has the honest character of a vintage watch that has lived a life.
Accessories / The Set
This Rolex Sea-Dweller is accompanied by its original Rolex presentation box, retaining its original reference sticker.
Also included is the original Rolex caseback sticker, an interesting period accessory that adds another dimension to the watch's accompanying set.
Original packaging and accessories can be particularly appealing when collecting vintage Rolex professional watches. Over the decades, many boxes, stickers and accompanying items have been discarded or separated from their watches.
While we always place greater importance on originality, condition and the integrity of the watch itself, the presence of genuine period accessories is certainly welcome.
The original Rolex caseback sticker is a particularly enjoyable detail, providing a small but interesting connection to how these watches were originally supplied.
No original warranty papers are stated as accompanying this example.
All purchases are supplied with bespoke Watts On Watches packaging and full purchase documentation.
Why Buy This Watch
For me, the Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 represents one of the most compelling chapters in the history of Rolex professional watches.
It is a watch that was genuinely designed with a specific purpose in mind. The Sea-Dweller was never simply a more substantial Submariner. Its development was driven by the demands of professional saturation diving, and its distinctive construction reflects that heritage.
However, what makes the Great White particularly attractive is its place in the evolution of the collection.
The earlier Double Red models are understandably celebrated, but the Great White offers much of the same vintage charm, including the domed acrylic crystal, matte dial, substantial Oyster case and helium escape valve, alongside an understated all-white dial configuration.
The early Mark 1 dial is especially interesting to collectors, representing one of the first variations produced following the transition away from red lettering.
On this particular example, the appeal is immediately obvious.
The rich yellow tritium has aged beautifully, giving the watch a warmth that simply cannot be replicated by a modern Sea-Dweller. The original hands complement the dial, while the blue-grey bezel introduces another layer of character.
I have always felt that a good vintage Rolex should tell its own story through its condition. Not every scratch needs removing, and not every component needs to look brand new.
In fact, some of the most attractive examples are those that retain the characteristics developed through decades of use.
This 1979 Great White is exactly that sort of watch.
The 40mm case remains an excellent size, with the thicker Sea-Dweller construction giving it a reassuring presence on the wrist. The domed Plexiglass crystal is a joy to look at, and the matte dial has an understated quality that later glossy references simply do not offer.
For an established vintage Rolex collector, the combination of an original Mark 1 dial, beautifully aged tritium and blue-grey bezel makes this a particularly interesting proposition.
For someone looking to add a historically significant professional Rolex to their collection, the Sea-Dweller 1665 represents an important piece of the brand's diving heritage.
A beautiful example of the Great White, with genuine character, an attractive early dial configuration and precisely the sort of ageing that makes vintage Rolex collecting so enjoyable.
Every watch we sell is fully inspected to meet our exacting standards. We stand by the quality of our stock, which is why every purchase comes with a 12-month warranty as standard.