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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Ref. 140.8.89 is one of the most quietly impressive watches of the 1990s, and this 1994 example represents exceptional value for anyone who truly understands watchmaking. Elegant, restrained and beautifully engineered, this is a watch that prioritises quality over hype.
At its heart is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 889, one of the most important automatic movements of the modern era. This movement did not just power JLC watches — it formed the base architecture for calibres used by Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, a testament to its engineering excellence, thin profile and reliability. The level of finishing on the 889 is far beyond what its price point might suggest, with careful attention paid to both function and refinement.
The 37mm steel case remains unpolished, preserving its original lines and proportions. Paired with a clean opaline silver dial, softly aged caramel-toned tritium lume and elegant dauphine hands, the watch achieves a perfect balance of dressy refinement and everyday wearability.
Offered as a full set, this Master Control includes its original boxes, guarantee papers, manuals and the all-important Master Control certificate, confirming the watch passed Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary 1000 Hour Control testing — signed by the original watchmaker.
For under £3,500, this is one of the strongest quality propositions we currently offer.
Key Features
Reference 140.8.89
Year 1994
Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic Calibre 889, fully serviced
Movement architecture used by AP and Vacheron Constantin
37mm unpolished stainless steel case
Opaline silver dial with caramel tritium lume
Dauphine hands with tritium
Sapphire crystal
Handmade German leather strap
Original Jaeger-LeCoultre buckle included
Full set with boxes, papers, manuals and Master Control certificate
A Word on Condition
The condition of this watch is a major highlight. The case is unpolished, retaining sharp edges and correct factory geometry. The dial is clean and balanced, with evenly aged tritium that adds warmth without compromising legibility.
The movement has been fully serviced and performs exactly as it should. While the cushion from the original box has been misplaced, all key documentation and accessories are present, including the signed Master Control certificate — far more important than packaging alone.
Collector Insight
Among serious collectors, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 889 is quietly revered. Often referred to as a “watchmaker’s movement,” it became the foundation for some of the most respected calibres used by Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin during the 1990s. Those brands relied on JLC not for marketing, but for engineering excellence — thin construction, reliability, and exceptional finishing that could be elevated to the highest levels of haute horlogerie.
The Master Control line itself marked a turning point for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Introduced in the early 1990s, it was the first modern collection to undergo the now-famous 1000 Hour Control, a testing regime that went far beyond COSC certification and covered the entire cased watch. Early examples like this one, complete with the original signed Master Control certificate, are increasingly sought after as collectors begin to recognise just how important this period was for the brand.
In unpolished condition, with full documentation and powered by one of the most influential movements of its era, this reference represents a level of quality that is becoming increasingly difficult to find — particularly at this price point. For many informed collectors, watches like this are exactly where the real value in modern vintage horology lies.
Why Buy This Watch
This is a watch for collectors who value substance over logos.
One of the finest automatic movements of its era
Proven high-horology pedigree shared with AP and Vacheron
Unpolished case
Full documented set
Elegant, timeless design
Exceptional quality for under £3,500
If you want a watch that showcases true Swiss watchmaking excellence, impeccable finishing and long-term wearability without paying inflated brand premiums, this Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control is an outstanding choice.
Every watch we sell is fully inspected and professionally serviced to meet our exacting standards. All purchases include bespoke Watts On Watches packaging, full purchase documentation and a 12-month Watts On Watches warranty.