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The Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78086 is one of the purest expressions of the Tank design, and this example is elevated further by one of the most desirable details a vintage Cartier can carry — an original Paris signed dial.
Produced in the 1980s, this watch retains the proportions and elegance that define the Tank Louis, housed in a solid 18K yellow gold case measuring 23.5 × 30.5mm. The case back is signed Cartier Paris, with all hallmarks present and correct, reinforcing the watch’s authenticity and period correctness.
The white Roman numeral dial is the clear highlight. Signed “Cartier Paris” at 6 o’clock, it immediately places this watch within a more collectible tier of vintage Tanks. The Paris signature is not decorative — it is a direct reference to Cartier’s original Paris workshops and is widely regarded by collectors as the most historically important dial signature offered by the brand.
Powered by a manual wind Cartier movement, this Tank Louis delivers the refined, traditional wearing experience that collectors expect from a watch of this calibre. Elegant, understated and unmistakably Cartier.
Key Features
Reference 78086
1980s production
Manual wind Cartier movement
Solid 18K yellow gold case
Case back signed Cartier Paris with full hallmarks
Original white Paris signed dial with Roman numerals
Acrylic crystal
Navy leather strap with Cartier-style pin buckle
Sold as watch only with WOW documentation
A Word on Condition
The case presents in excellent vintage condition, with well-defined edges and all gold hallmarks clearly visible. The dial remains original and clean, with crisp printing and strong contrast between the Roman numerals and the white ground.
The Paris signature is clear and correctly positioned, a detail that is often compromised or absent on lesser examples. The movement has been fully inspected and performs exactly as it should.
Collector Insight
Among vintage Cartier collectors, Paris signed dials sit at the very top of the desirability ladder. Before Cartier’s global consolidation, watches signed “Paris” were directly associated with the brand’s historic headquarters and ateliers. These dials represent the closest link to Cartier’s original design language and early production philosophy.
Over time, many Tanks lost their Paris signatures through dial replacements or service dials, making original examples increasingly scarce. A Tank Louis with a genuine Paris dial, correct case engravings and untouched proportions is exactly the kind of piece seasoned collectors look for — understated to the untrained eye, but immediately recognised by those who know.
This reference offers all of that heritage in a wearable, elegant format that continues to age beautifully.
Why Buy This Watch
Rare Paris signed dial, one of the most collectible Cartier dial signatures
Solid 18K yellow gold Tank Louis case
Manual wind movement for traditional Cartier charm
Excellent originality and honest condition
A serious vintage Cartier for collectors, not fashion buyers
Elegant, historically important and increasingly hard to find, this Tank Louis is a refined entry into high-grade vintage Cartier collecting.
Every watch we sell is fully inspected and professionally serviced to meet our exacting standards. All purchases include bespoke Watts On Watches packaging, full purchase documentation and a 12-month Watts On Watches warranty.