The Vacheron Constantin 222 - Gold Habit's Die Hard
Stairway to Heaven, Charlies Angels, Disco music and flares are the hot topics of pop culture in the decade of the 70’s. But we're here to talk watches. 1972 brought us the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. 4 years later came the Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s 1977. Star Wars is released in Cinemas, Roman Polanski is arrested and charged and the Vacheron Constantin 222 is released.
2022 Re-Release Pictured Left, Original 222 from 1977 Pictured Right.
It was Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the call for a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Simply named after the companies 222nd anniversary. There was 500 made in steel and 150 made in Gold. Very exclusive. Fast forward to 2022 - Watches and Wonders. Vacheron announces the re-Issue of the 222.
Barely anything has changed from the design Jorg Hysek created back in 77’. I think that’s what makes this re-issue so perfect. It’s the same reason why the Porsche 911’s design has stood the test of time. Its 18k yellow gold case comes in at 37mm x 7.95mm (width x height). A refreshing change to the ever so popular 42mm and in keeping with the 70’s style. One thing to note is that the date window has moved to the centre by a small degree as to not interrupt the minute track which is a positive change from the original.
The bracelet is also 18k yellow gold with a brushed finish to maintain the sporty aesthetic and there is the slightest polishing to the edge of each bracelet link. It's slight to the truest sense of the word, carried out in a way that only Vacheron could execute so precisely. The Bracelet clasp itself is comprised of a triple blade folding clasp leaving a sleek and seamless bracelet finish when shut.
However the movement of new 222 is not defined by its era. Its heartbeat comes from the Vacheron caliber 2455/2, beating at rate of 28,800vph and containing 27 jewels. Again like the movement of its older brother its automatic winding rotor is 18k gold and it too wears the proud numbers 222 upon it. The movement itself is is 3.6mm unlike the 1120 which was 2.45mm thick. This is a total difference of 1.15mm. This has a knock on affect of a total increase in case height of .95mm, leaving the case height at a total of 7.95mm A modern movement is welcomed in my mind however. With modern tech you would be safe to assume the watch will be easier to service and repair, be more precise and hopefully not be too affected by the occasional knock on your door frame. It maybe won’t affect the watch but you will definitely wince.
The engraved rotor displaying 222 is a welcome homage to the original.
Considering the original movement from the first issue of the 222 (cal. 1120) is still the flattest full rotor movement of all time I think it would have been nice to implement it or at least have a crack at breaking that record. The 1120 wasn’t just used by Vacheron either. Audemars Piguet used it in the Royal Oak under the name 2120/21 as well as Patek (Nautilus) under the name 28-255. In fact it was actually Jaeger le Coultre who manufactured the movement as an “Ebauche” (Raw) movement as to which the above companies could build into their watches.
I would hope this re-issue will be released in steel at some point in the future, not that I would be able to afford one, but I still hope they do it. Its the nod’s to the past and the nostalgia factor that I love about this piece. I mean that little white gold Maltease cross is fetching but the package as a whole is pretty dreamy. Coming in at a price of £53,500 it’s not cheap. But no one expected it would be. If you can afford it can you get it? Probably not unless you have high connections in the watch world. Will flippers have a field day with it if they can get one? Absolutely.
Written by Josh Cullum
