Sporty or Suave? Hands on with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph.
The Overseas Chronograph is a big watch. There is no denying it. At 42.5mm x 13.7mm its definitely a statement piece. Screw down pushers are common place with a lot of modern sports chronographs but something about this watch is different. Something… nostalgic.
The Overseas Chronograph sat perfectly on the wrist. Photo credits to Watts on Watches.
A reverse panda dial stands front and centre but in typical Vacheron fashion there’s more to this watch than meets the eye.
The Overseas line was introduced in 1996 and currently revolves around three main calibers: the ultra-thin caliber 1120, the self-winding caliber 2460 as well as the caliber 5000 series and particularly relevant to this watch the cal.5200 - a self winding chronograph movement that reeks of Genevan excellence.
The 5200 Movement.
Introduced in 2016 the caliber 5200 beats at 28,800 VPH and sports a 22-carat gold, unidirectional winding rotor (Its more efficient than bi-directional) which sits on ceramic bearings. It's a column wheel chronograph but it also contains a vertical clutch. An engineering pairing of this caliber, if you’ll pardon the pun, will increase chronograph durability and is widely believed by watchmakers to be the Goldilocks scenario, just right.
The column wheel finished with the Maltese cross.
Grab your loupe because I'm about to talk details. One of many treats on this movement is the Poinçon de Geneva. It’s essentially a Geneva hallmark reassuring you that your timepiece meets the highest standards. The column wheel is crowned with a Maltese cross. Upon which each beveled edge has been polished. This is the same for the tops of the pillars on the column wheel too. Functionally it provides nothing but aesthetically, Vacherons finishing, is everything.
The Geneva Hallmark.
Like the finishing ribbon on a Christmas present, the 5200 is surrounded by a ring of soft iron. Functionality does play a part here though. The soft iron ring is known as mu-metal and is comprised of a nickel-iron alloy. The idea with this technique for magnetic protection is to re-direct the magnetic fields a watch will experience in day to day life away from vulnerable components.
The integrated bracelet design of the watch subtly reflects the motif of the Maltese cross in each individual link. This motif can also be spotted around the edge of the bezel. I love the solid feel of the bracelet and the fact it is extremely comfortable to wear as well as feeling secure, its not going anywhere in a hurry. The quick release system for the watch is a welcome touch. Changing a strap for say, a sportier rubber option as supplied, can now be done in a matter of minutes with just your hands thanks to the quick release system. One caveat is that you are now restricted to an OEM strap.
The beautifully finished clasp and bracelet.
Overall, the Overseas Chronograph is a real hit for me. Considering my wrists are fairly large I can get on board with the size at At 42.5mm x 13.7mm but I could see how it would put some people off. The watch doesn’t wear larger than it is and to be honest the size becomes irrelevant. It's an automatic Chronograph, no one is expecting it to be tiny. However compared to other self winding chronographs it’s no giant either. At a price of £27,500 its not a “cheap watch” but you don’t get world class finishing without paying for it.
Versatility is the name of the game with this piece. A watch that can be worn with jeans and a T-shirt but will also be transformed when pitched against a suit. Going camping for the weekend? Throw it on it’s rubber strap and use the Chronograph to work out your rate of speed on your hike. Going to dinner? Let it peak out of your jacket sleeve, subtlety is key. Or maybe you just want a handsome watch? Its got your back there too.
Be sure to keep a look out for our YouTube video where we get hands on with the Overseas Chronograph over the next few weeks.
By Josh Cullum for Watts on Watches.
Photo Credits: Hodinkee
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-overseas-chronograph-reverse-panda-dial-hands-on#&gid=1&pid=11
